I didn't know much about DBD clothing (Death Before Dishonour to use it's full name) prior to this interview, but after seeing their Summer line, and their increasing presence in the UK streetwear and dubstep scene I was keen to ask some questions. I caught up with the man behind it all, Chris Manning, to see where the brand came from and where they are going, their connections to the East and their adoption by the UK dubstep scene. Check out more on their website and read the interview with Chris on the expand.
What is DBD and how did it come about?
I've been in menswear design for many many years now and always wanted my own brand. Denim is the area I have spent most of my time. I Started DBD back in 2003 and ran it for about 2 and a half years before I finally went bust due to retailer non payment. Back then it was higher end and stocked in accounts Cruise, Seibu Japan/ Hong Kong and about 40 independents across the globe. I used to charge double the amount for product that I do now. I got great press in the big magazines, Arena etc. and used to make product such as the ninja jacket I did that had ninja hood, power straps in the sleeves to enable harder punching, padding and protection covering vital areas. It was all about the East just as it is now.
I restarted in in 2009 and still I draw most of my inspiration from the East as I adopt several of the practices from there, mainly Buddhism. I'm not on a crusade to get people into Buddhism, it's just what I'm into so most of my pieces are inspired by that. I try to get as much profound meaning into my artwork as possible.
Who's involved?
Me and to a large extent my Wife. She is a director of a brand and has spent all of her life in fashion buying so she's a good sense check.
Where do you see yourselves fitting into the UK scene?
I'm not too worried about fitting into a scene. I just want to do my thing irrespective being in any scene. DBD has been adopted by the Dubstep scene and I'm really happy about that. A lot of the UK scene is wannabe America but I'm not about that at all. I've got much more love for whats occurring in Scandinavia with brands like Wood Wood.
Having said that a tiny group of us are coming together as we're sick and tired of the lack of support we're getting from the retail sector. We're going to do things our way and develop our own systems of contact with the public. The brands that are involved have in my opinion the skill to become world leaders in the game. As well as that they're really good people which in these days of "get money fuck bitches" mentality is a breath of fresh air.
How important is music, the dubstep scene especially, to DBD?
Very important. Music has always been of massive importance to me and music and fashion belong together. I've been very lucky to acquire fans of the brand that are releasing music of which I am a fan. I think the darker nature of the stuff I do works very well with the darker, deeper side of Dubstep.
What are your thoughts on the UK dubstep scene at the moment?
I'm a bandwagon jumper. Deep House has always been my thing so I'm no authority, I've only been listening to it a couple of years. What I do know though is that it's a real close knit community and everybody knows everybody. It's becoming really commercial and there is a price with that but on the positive side I know DJ/producers currently playing nights for nothing and that needs to change.
There are small underground labels setting up all over the place that are producing some real quality stuff and this is where my attention is. Most of this question is answered in the next question.
What, if anything, don't you like about it?
Like any scene it splinters off into sub genres as it grows commercially. Cash comes in and people start making idiotic comedy stuff. Somebody sent me a track the other day and it was about the equivalent of the birdy song. I hate all that robot screeching stuff with no sub bass, it's just unpleasant noise to me. I was attracted to Dubstep because of the physicality of the music, the way the sub bass penetrates the body. It's going beyond the aural experience and taking it into the physical dimension.
The clever use of silent space was also a big attraction to me. I've never been a fan of DnB because I hate the way that the snares just fill up all the space. I feel good Dubstep has room to breathe in it. I'm not a fan of MC's either. Rather than hype me up I just think "Shut the fuck up, you're spoiling good music".
Whats your favourite piece from the new line?
My Favourite piece from the new line is Emaciated Buddha. It has a lot of personal meaning to me. It basically depicts the struggle the Buddha went through in order to attain enlightenment. He went through severe practices like eating a grain of rice a day until he almost died. He was literally a walking skeleton. The bones that form the arms make up the "Noble Eightfold Path" which is the Buddha's teaching to end personal suffering once and for all. The hands are holding eyes and that symbolises the birth of divine vision brought about through the adopting of the "Noble Eightfold Path". There are way more things in there also but in a nutshell that's what the piece is about.
Where can readers grab some DBD?
I'm afraid for now from this Godforsaken site http://www.dbdstore.co.uk/ I'm getting my head around Dreamweaver at the moment and hope to have something decent built by the beginning of July.
What's next for you guys, what have you got up your sleeves?
Releasing Cut & Sew. I have some pieces in the pipeline just waiting to get on a production line. I've had some stunning 9 oz Denim woven up for a shirt run I'm doing. The weft on the denim is self coloured rather than white so it's very flat looking, almost like an engineer overall.
I'm also doing some varsity jackets and denim jeans. Eventually the brand will become much more about cut & sew and less about graphics. I'm self taught on graphics but schooled to degree level in garment design and have loads of commercial experience so hopefully when the cut & sew starts flowing DBD will make it's mark.
